Sports Clinic
January/February 2008

Icecapades

When I discovered ice climbing in 1982, it became my love,” says Chicks with Picks founder Kim Reynolds, “way over rock climbing.” In 1998 she developed the first women’s-only ice-climbing clinic, and the program has expanded over the years to include three clinics in Ouray, Colorado, and two in North Conway, New Hampshire, catering to novices and experts alike. Don’t have time for her clinics? Here Kim shares some tips on getting into this very cool sport.

Getting Started - The Necessities

Ditch the notion that you need to be an experienced rock climber or mountaineer to try ice climbing for the first time, though it is good to take a basic climbing lesson at a local rock gym or rec center. And getting comfortable and familiar with the gear and the etiquette will only give you more confidence when you make the leap to the ice.

“Take a class or go with someone who really knows the sport,” says Kim. The gear you will be using has sharp objects, she adds, so “it’s important to learn the proper technique in swinging an ice axe and placing your feet.” Not only is it a safer way to start out, it’s also fun and supportive going with a group of like-minded individuals. “I can really feel the energy in my clients with the ‘If she can do it, I can do it’ mentality,” says Kim. “Women are encouraging with one another. If you learn to climb in a small group, it’s motivating.”

Gear Tips

You may already have most of what you need in your closet. “You are essentially standing in a very large freezer, and it’s no fun unless you’re warm. Start with good clothing,” says Kim. One of her recommendations is a down coat “for the time in between climbs and pitches. Layering is really important, so start with a base layer of Capilene or wool and then a fleece midlayer for both top and bottom. Finish it off with a solid, water-resistant shell.”

When looking at new clothes, she tells us, “I really like the side zips so I can ventilate on the hike to the climb, and boy do I like ‘whiz zips’ in my pants! I don’t have to take off all my gear to go to the bathroom. You just don’t have that option on a multipitch climb.” Of course you will want to keep your head and hands dry and warm, too. “Bring a good hat that covers your ears and a neck gaiter.” She adds: “I always carry two pairs of gloves” so there’s an extra pair of warm ones to slip into.

When you’re ready to buy the bigger equipment, Kim makes these suggestions. “I like having a harness where you can remove the leg loops. It’s difficult to pull a nonadjustable one over your boots and crampons.”

That brings us to the sharp objects. Crampons are metal plates that you attach to your boots and are what keep you lodged in the ice. Keep in mind exactly what type of ice climbing you are doing as that will determine what type of crampons and ice axes you require.

When headed to the boot department, Kim stresses the importance of getting “ice-climbing boots in particular because they’re rigid enough.” Of course, you’ll need to protect your noggin too, so a normal climbing helmet is a must.

What to Bring

Snacks are just as important as proper attire. Kim swears by peanut butter and jelly: “There is nothing better.” When looking for a quick boost, she turns to Clif Shot Bloks organic energy chews. “They don’t freeze, and they taste like a giant gummy bear.” And maybe most important, bring a thermos. “Hot tea is key,” says Kim. “It’s not easy drinking frozen water!”

Cross-training

To get into ice-climbing shape, Kim’s got several recommendations. “Sit-ups are amazing—lots of sit-ups—and anything that keeps your upper body engaged.” Whether you’re just starting out or trying to stay in shape in the off-season, she also points to yoga. “There are a lot of ways to get strong in yoga. It is such a great practice that really applies to climbing. The balance and the stretching help you move gracefully on the ice.” She adds: “You can’t be anywhere else when you are climbing except inside your mind and with your body, and yoga teaches that beautifully.”

Taking It to the Next Level - Become a Leader

If you have racked up a bunch of time on the ice and you want to cut your teeth on the next step, it would be lead ice climbing. “To lead on ice,” says Kim, “you have to gain a certain level of confidence and belief in yourself because falling is not an option. You have to trust yourself, and you can’t do that until you have really refined your skills and technique.” She suggests that “leading below your ability builds confidence.” She told us that she didn’t lead a climb until she was absolutely sure she wasn’t going to fall. “Practice leading on a top rope so that you get your systems down. It helps you learn how long it really takes to place an ice screw.”

Showing Off

Once you get your lead skills honed, there are ice festivals and competitions that you can enter, such as the Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado (www.ourayicefestival.com) and the Water Fall Ice Festival in Cody, Wyoming (www.southforkice.com).

—Karina Evertsen

First Hand

Experienced climbers kept telling me, “Tonya, if you really want to scale the highest mountains in the most remote regions of the world, you’d better learn to climb ice. Dry rock can instantly be blanketed in frozen snow overnight.” Given my desire to go to such extremes, I became enamored with all that ice climbing had to offer: the ability to climb through the winter, the luxury of never again reaching for unobtainable handholds, the elimination of stepping high with quivering legs on thin crystals, and of course the adventure associated with going to new places. With very little coaxing, I decided to step off the rock and onto the ice.

What I did not anticipate was that the harder I swung the ice tool, the less likely the pick was to stick. The heavy hammerlike tool had the uncanny ability to bounce back and hit me in the face. Words of advice came from the peanut gallery below: “Act like you’re trying to flick an apple off the end of your tool, keep your arm straight, and use your wrist.” With my arms stretched above my head for so long, I lost the ability to hold on to the tools as the blood left my fingers stinging and feeling like frozen clubs. My body began to shake, and that little voice on my shoulder began asking: Where is the sun? Will the ice pull away from the wall and take me down with it? What will happen if I drop this tool on my belayer? Is it possible my toes are frostbitten?

It took about three visits to the ice before it all came together. Then one day out of nowhere, the sun, the moon, and the stars must have all been aligned because suddenly I found the sweet spot and nailed the swing. It was a powerful feeling of success followed by a jolt of exhilaration. You know immediately when you dial it because it sounds solid. I would describe it as a whomp versus a hollow ping. When done properly, it can be a bit difficult to remove the pick, giving you the confidence to weight the tool and move up.

—Tonya Riggs, director of business development for Stonewear Designs and Trango, and Everest summiter, on learning how to ice-climb