Park It
By Debra Bokur

Our country’s national parks are some of our greatest treasures. It can be hard to share them though, especially when you’re choking on fumes from the endless line of traffic ahead of you or the silence is overtaken by the hum of generators in your campground. Fear not! You can still get out and have an experience all your own—you just have to know where to go.


You know what it feels like: the temptation to disappear into the wilderness is a siren’s call, a lure so strong that when it hits it’s useless to resist. Thankfully, despite an ever-increasing intrusion of development, real wilderness can still be found—and you don’t have to travel far to find it. When you’re ready for your own close-up with the planet, venture out into America’s national park system and its staggering diversity of landscapes and adventure opportunities. From Alaska’s deepest, snowiest wilderness to the networks of rivers and lakes in the South and the fierce landscape of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island, you can design whatever kind of journey your heart desires.

Badlands National Park, South Dakota
These 244,000 acres of dramatically eroded rock buttes, pinnacles, and mixed-grass prairie are premier backpacking country. And though there is no technical climbing allowed because the compressed-dirt formations are not conducive to technical use, it’s a bouldering paradise. But bring leather gloves—you’ll likely find some of the plants to be less than friendly.

Try this: “Explore the area called The Canyons below the Doors and Window Trail,” says Chief Ranger Mark Gorman. “The Doors Trail leads to a ridge overlooking a landscape of puzzlelike formations. If you take the time to work your way down into the maze, you can have a very interesting experience in the midst of this vastly eroding landscape. But it takes planning as there are no established routes here—and it gets hot.” Take your time, advises Mark, and do it as an overnight trip. For an overnight take park exit 110 near the town of Wall, which leads to the Pinnacles entrance. Leave your vehicle at any overlook and hike down into basins of rugged terrain near Sage Creek (if you’re coming from the east, enter through exit 131 at Cactus Flats). Here the formations are very sharp and jagged, with castlelike shapes. Another option is to simply pull over on one of the many roads and follow a dry river or creek bed into the formations.

Good to know: Temperatures range from –40 to 116 degrees F, and summers are characterized by spectacular and sometimes violent thunderstorms. Be prepared: sudden weather changes and high winds are common throughout the year. Bring adequate water (you’ll have to pack it in) and shade, including a wide-brimmed hat.

Etc.: There’s an open trail policy here, and no permit is required. “If you’re planning anything difficult or an extensive backcountry camping trip,” says Mark, “it’s a good idea to contact the ranger station before departure to let them know where you’re headed.” www.nps.gov/badl

Denali National Park and National Preserve, Alaska
The stunning glaciers of Denali offer a challenging option for backpacking, hiking, and serious climbing. North America’s highest peak, 20,320-foot Mount McKinley, crowns the horizon, and this 6-million-acre wilderness remains remote thanks to a rigorously controlled road system (there’s only one, and you can’t drive on it). The 92-mile dirt and gravel road leads from the entrance to the interior.

Try this: To access hiking and camping areas, Kris Fister, public information officer, recommends that you grab your bike, skis, snowshoes, and camping gear and hop the shuttle bus running on schedule from one end to the other; disembark wherever you like (there are no named trailheads). For glacier hikes, hire a plane to fly you in and drop you off. Most of the mountaineering in this area, which is accessible from the south near Mount McKinley, is reserved for the most experienced climbers. “While Mount Foraker is popular for climbing,” says Kris, “its routes are the most technically difficult in this range, and Mount Foraker has some of the most difficult class of pitches in Alaska.”

Good to know: For mountaineering, two-month advanced registration is required; bike reservations are required on buses. Kris adds this advice: “Regardless of where you are in Denali, you’re in grizzly bear habitat, and you shouldn’t forget it. Also be prepared for snow at any time of the year, including summer.”

Etc.: Concessionaires with sled dogs provide alternative transportation during the deep-snow season—or you can bring your own team. www.nps.gov/dena

Everglades National Park, Florida
Approximately one-third of this park’s 1.5 million acres is water, making the Everglades the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States. Designated as a Biosphere Reserve, a World Heritage site, and a Wetland of International Importance, the park is home to a number of rare and endangered species, including the American crocodile, the Florida panther, and the West Indian manatee.

Try this: Allyson Gantt, the park’s education and outreach coordinator, recommends the 99-mile wilderness waterway that runs from the town of Flamingo to Everglade City (or vice versa) for a seven- to 10-day self-supported paddling adventure by either kayak or canoe. “There’s no loop,” she explains, “so you need to arrange for transport of equipment at both ends.” Wooden platforms called chickees, a Miccosukee Indian word for home, jut out onto the water and can be found along the route. Pitch your freestanding tent here (no staking), or search for the occasional ground sites in clearings and beach sites on the small islands you’ll pass. Along the 99-mile trail are options for shorter, four- to five-day excursions, including loop trails around Cape Sable.

Good to know: There are 156 miles of canoe, kayak, and hiking trails. Most of the 47 wilderness campsites are accessible only by boat. Reserve your chickee ahead of time and note that permits are issued only in person within 24 hours of your trip.

Etc.: Bugs and biting insects can be an issue year-round but are worse in the hot, steamy months. Pack your net and repellent, and you’ll be fine. www.nps.gov/ever

Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming (also Idaho and Montana)
Famous throughout the world for its geysers, bubbling mud pots, and steamy hot springs, Yellowstone is located largely atop an ancient caldera, or collapsed volcano cone. It contains more than two-thirds of all the geysers on earth and boasts half of the geothermal features found on the planet—along with some great backcountry hiking.

Try this: Public Affairs Officer Al Nash suggests three specific areas for challenging multiday hikes and extended backcountry camping. “All offer a very wild experience, with trail conditions that vary according to season.” Al also says that the Lamar Valley in the northeast corner has a somewhat longer summer season, sees less vehicle traffic, gets less snow, and generally stays drier—meaning you can access it a little earlier in the season. The valley follows the Lamar River, and in some areas crossings are required. (Al cautions that spring snowmelt can cause fast water with potentially treacherous conditions, and it’s always cold.) Numerous trails here begin in rolling terrain that quickly turns mountainous and climbs from 6,500 feet upward for several thousand more.

The Thoroughfare Region in the southeast corner is the largest roadless area with adjacent forest in the lower 48 states and features the headwaters of the Yellowstone River. Elevation begins at 7,800 feet. The southwest region, called the Bechler area, sees light tourist traffic because it is not accessible from the park’s Grand Loop road system, where most visitors stay. There’s a separate entrance from Ashton, Idaho. “There’s also a road of sorts that exists near the south Wyoming entrance,” says Al. “This area is known for its waterfalls, but it’s difficult to get to, which accounts a great deal for the lighter travel. Also, river crossings at the beginning of the season, due to winter runoff, can be quite dangerous.”

Good to know: Toxic gases often surround the hydrothermal areas. Be aware at all times of thin crust, fumes, and scalding water, especially when traversing the backcountry. Temporary early closures may occur due to bear activity.

Etc.: The park’s website includes a comprehensive trip planner at www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/upload/07tripplanner.pdf. General site: www.nps.gov/yell

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii
According to Hawaiian myth and legend, the Big Island is the home of the fiery volcano goddess Pele. Get up close and personal with her by day-hiking along Crater Rim Drive, an 11-mile road encircling the summit caldera that passes through ecosystems ranging from desert to lush tropical rain forest. The Halape Trail leads to a white-sand beach with a sheltered cove area and brackish water pools in the cracks of the volcano’s feet. Or cycle the challenging Hilina Pali Road overlooking the ocean and the coastal area. Kulanaokuaiki Campground is located along the way.

Try this: “Hike to the summit of Mauna Loa,” advises Chief Ranger Talmadge Magno. “The elevation is 13,677 feet. There’s snow up here during winter months.” There are two cabins with bunks available on a first come, first served basis. Red Hill Cabin sits at 10,000 feet, and Mauna Loa Cabin is at the summit. Permits are required, but no reservations are taken. If the bunks fill up, tent camping is allowed.

Good to know: If you plan to cycle, do it in the early hours before the traffic becomes heavy. Overnight wilderness hikes are allowed if you obtain a free permit at the Kilauea Visitor Center.

Etc.: Kilauea is one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Fresh lava flows, earthquakes, and volcanic fumes may cause large sections of the park to be closed with only minimal notice. www.nps.gov/havo

Shenandoah National Park, Virginia
Hike deep in the Blue Ridge Mountains among birch, maple, white pine, and mountain laurel forests year-round. Routes range from mild to strenuous, with plentiful opportunities to view the park’s osprey, golden eagles, mink, bobcats, beavers, red and gray fox, and river otters. Comprising 300 heavily forested square miles of the Blue Ridge range in the southern Appalachians, this park includes Stonyman and Hawksbill peaks—both surpassing 4,000 feet and offering a wide range of elevations, slopes, and myriad natural features.

Try this: “The backcountry here is underutilized,” admits Karen Beck-Herzog, public information officer. For an intermediate to advanced backcountry experience, she suggests a four-day backpacking trip in the Nicholson and Hazel wilderness area. The first day follows an 8- to 10-mile route with optional side trips to Mary’s Rock, followed by a 9.9-mile hike with several choices for routes, including Pine Hill Gap Trail and Catlett Mountain Trail. Day 3 leads to Cave/Falls Trail and campsites along White Rocks Trail. Day 4 is a short 2.3-mile hike on to Hazel Mountain Trail.

Good to know: Four lodges provide accommodations, and there are five designated campgrounds. Free permits are required for backcountry camping.

Etc.: Shenandoah’s website includes comprehensive, detailed information on hikes of varying levels; use it to access maps and firsthand info. www.nps.gov/shen

Where the Wild Things Are

When you hear the phrase “national park,” your subconscious probably makes an immediate leap to well-known places like the Grand Canyon and Death Valley. The fabulous reality, however, is that America’s vast network of parks offers a host of outdoor experiences. Here are a few of the less familiar destinations.

Channel Islands National Park
Ventura, California
www.nps.gov/chis
Comprising five islands off the state’s southern coast, eons of isolation have resulted in unique coastal and oceanic ecosystems.

Little River Canyon National Preserve
Fort Payne, Alabama
www.nps.gov/liri
Located in the southern range of the Appalachian Mountains, this park features bluffs, canyon rims, waterfalls, sandstone cliffs, and forested uplands.

Isle Royale National Park
Houghton, Michigan
www.nps.gov/isro
Paddling and hiking are the best ways to experience the primitive wilderness that defines this remote island, which is accessible only by boat or seaplane.

Apostle Islands National Lakeshore
Lake Superior, Wisconsin
www.nps.gov/apis
Proof that sand dunes aren’t limited to seashores, this dramatic landscape along Lake Superior’s coast includes 21 islands and 12 miles of mainland to explore by sailboat, by canoe, or on foot.

Crater Lake National Park
Crater Lake, Oregon
www.nps.gov/crla
Deep in the Cascade Mountain range, this ancient lake is located in a caldera that dates back 7,700 years and is the seventh deepest lake in the world. Explore the rim and surrounding area by snowshoe.

Acadia National Park
Bar Harbor, Maine
www.nps.gov/acad
Hike or bike 45 miles of rugged terrain on broken stone roads originally built to accommodate horse-drawn carriages.

Dry Tortugas National Park
Key West, Florida
www.nps.gov/drto
This group of seven islands 70 miles off Key West is separated from the mainland by the Gulf of Mexico. These islands are home to the Carnegie Institute’s Laboratory for Marine Biology and the study of coral reef systems.

Guadalupe Mountains National Park
Salt Flat, Texas
www.nps.gov/gumo
This West Texas park boasts the world’s most outstanding example of a fossilized reef. More than 80 miles of hiking trails wind through canyons, craggy terrain, and lush springs.

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