Full: Milking the Alternatives Got dairy issues? Lucky for you, milk doesn’t come just from cows. By Pamela Bonds Remember the old advice that athletes shouldn’t drink milk before a race to avoid pace-breaking “mucus mouth”? Turns out this suggestion is not-so-sour wisdom for a good number of us. Although cow’s milk provides critical nutrients such as calcium and protein, the National Institute of Health estimates that up to 50 million Americans are lactose intolerant, meaning they lack lactase, the enzyme that helps them digest milk sugar. This condition more often affects African Americans, American Indians, and Asian Americans and usually happens over time; individuals are genetically programmed to gradually produce less lactase as they age, which is why stomach troubles may not show up until adulthood. Other sensitive people react to milk proteins, which can cause cramps, rashes, runny nose, and wheezing. “If you’re an athlete and prone to mucus or respiratory allergies, milk can coat the mucus and make it worse,” says Debra Boutin, MS, RD, assistant professor of nutrition at Bastyr University in Kenmore, Washington. “It’s nice to have another option.” For better and for worse, though, milk look-alikes aren’t true twins. They are free of the cholesterol and lactose in cow’s milk, but they lack natural calcium and vitamin D and sometimes protein. Soymilk has a protein profile most similar to cow’s milk. Depending on the brand, soy contains about 6 to 8 grams of protein per 8-ounce serving, compared with dairy milk’s 8 grams per serving. Most other milk alternatives contain between 1 gram of protein per serving (almond and rice) and 4 or 5 grams (oat and hemp). As for calcium and vitamin D, no faux milk has it naturally. “If you’re using nondairy milk as a replacement for cow’s milk, look for one that’s fortified,” says Tara Gidus, RD, an Orlando-based sports nutritionist and spokesperson for the American Dietetic Association. This means you’ll want to look to the label for supplementary calcium and vitamin D, which works with calcium to help build bones. Another helpful add-in is vitamin B12. Vegetarians and vegans, who often rely on milk alternatives, have trouble getting enough vitamin B12, which prevents anemia, promotes brain health, and occurs naturally only in animal products. But if you’re getting essential calcium, vitamin D, and B12 elsewhere in your diet, you can forgo fortification and think of your milk replacement as a way to add variety to your daily drinks. “Nondairy milks are just a different option,” says Gidus. “And they taste different from cow’s milk” (and from one another). To adapt to the unique flavors, Boutin says that some people start with a sweetened, flavored type, such as vanilla or chocolate, and then gradually transition to unsweetened forms, weaning taste buds off the extra sugar. Words like plain and original can be deceiving because the product may have added sweeteners, though less than flavored versions. For example, a look at Whole Foods’ 365 Organic brand of soymilk reveals that the chocolate flavor has 18 grams of sugar per cup, vanilla has 7 grams, original has 6 grams, and unsweetened has only 1 gram. Across the board, the higher the sugar content, the higher the calorie count. To dodge both added sweeteners and calories, look for “unsweetened” or check the nutrition label for added sugars. Generally, “plain” and “original” rice and oat milks don’t have extra sweeteners because, as carbohydrates, they’re already rich in sugar. Also beware that although nondairy beverages made from soybeans, rice, hempseeds, almonds, and oats offer health benefits, none is as nutrient-dense as the whole-food counterparts. “Unfortunately, when you make milk from these foods, a lot of nutrients get strained out,” says Boutin. But enough good stuff may come through that both soy and oat milks have earned U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approval for their ability to help reduce the risk of heart disease. What’s more, convenient cartons don’t need to be refrigerated before opening, making them a great choice for camping and roadtrips. And if you’d give up portability for enhanced milk-like performance, look in the refrigerated section for perishable soymilk brands. Ready for a try? To narrow the field, we asked nutrition experts to judge each milk alternative; then we gave them a test ride. Here’s how our favorite five compare. You can find any type at a local natural-foods store. SOY Bummer: The jury’s still out. Although the soybean’s mother load of phytoestrogens has been shown to prevent certain cancers, too much soy is thought to actually cause breast cancer. “Soy has become so ingrained in the American diet,” says Boutin. “Soy proteins are often in protein powders and energy bars, so you can eat more than you need.” Also, eating a surplus can possibly make you more sensitive to soy, which triggers tummy tumult. To maximize the benefits and minimize the risks, Boutin recommends sticking with a healthy quota of three or fewer servings of soy per day (8 ounces of soymilk equals one serving). Try it: The balanced texture—not too thin, not too thick—holds up just about anywhere you’d use cow’s milk. RICE Bummer: Although it’s made from whole-grain rice, the milk version doesn’t offer the same beneficial dietary fiber as the whole food, and it has the least protein among the “milks” highlighted here. Try it: The thinnest, mildest variety has the texture of nonfat milk, but it’s naturally sweeter. Pour rice milk HEMP Bummer: The robust flavor and the earthy aroma may put off some folks. At 130 calories per cup, hemp tips the scale beyond all other varieties except oat (also 130 calories per cup). Almond milk is 60 calories per cup, soy is 90, and rice is 110. Try it: The rich, nutty taste gives a boost to muffins. The chocolate flavor excels in pudding. Or try original hemp milk in cappuccino or chai. ALMOND Bummer: Perhaps because almonds tend to be expensive, the amounts used in commercial almond milks are usually low. To make your own version without any extras, try the “Easy Almond Milk” recipe on the facing page. Try it: Almond milk adds nuttiness to smoothies. Another cool option: freeze and then half-thaw for a refreshingly sweet slushy. OAT Bummer: Like rice milk, oat milk has plenty of natural sugar, so you won’t find an “unsweetened” type. Try it: The sweetest and thickest of the bunch, creamy oat milk shines in quick breads and, of course, is a nice complement to oatmeal. Or drink it straight.
Making Your Own To make soy, rice, and nut milks on your own, you can invest in a machine like the Soyabella ($139; www.tribest.com), which heats, grinds, and filters ingredients into soy, rice, or almond milk. Or try a low-tech method: the nut milk bag (available at natural-products stores). Although the bag doesn’t help you make soy or rice milks—those require heat processing—you can prepare homemade almond milk in a matter of minutes and control the amount of sugar and other add-ins. Easy Almond Milk Combine and blend ingredients in a blender. Strain through a nut milk bag or cheesecloth, squeezing out the milk. Keeps for 4 days in the refrigerator. Dates add a hint of sweetness (you could also add maple syrup, agave nectar, or honey to taste). Vanilla is also a nice flavoring. |
