Finding the Flavor of Wales

On her first trip to Wales, Tennessee-based writer Ann Yungmeyer finds that artisan cuisine puts the small but passionate country on the Foodie map. Read more travel adventures at annyungmeyer.wordpress.com

Country Walks to Culinary Traditions 

Specialty at Llwynhelyg Farm Shop

Wales is better known for golf than gastronomy, thanks in part to hosting the 2010 Ryder Cup, and its unspoiled countryside has long been a favorite escape for Londoners seeking a rural retreat. Yet Wales’ culinary landscape is ripe for discovery for anyone who enjoys fresh, flavorful cooking and homegrown produce, seasoned with a hint of Welsh heritage.

Like the Londoners who come to ramble in the countryside, I was drawn to Wales for its pastoral scenery and excellent network of walking trails. Exploring the south and mid regions, I traveled with friends through fertile valleys and rolling pastures, along dramatic coastline and village gardens – all which set the stage for our introduction to the local food and drink.

We sampled artisan breads and handmade cheeses, teatime Welsh cakes and organic cider. From chatting with wellie-clad Welshmen foraging mushrooms along a wooded trail to watching wheat being ground at a historic mill, we could see that Wales is rooted in a distinct food culture, dedicated to premium flavor and heirloom methods. Simply put, the Welsh are passionate about preserving the special skills of artisan food production.

Culinary Highlights and other Rarebits
A former 17th century coach house, The Bell of Skenfrith in Monmouthshire is one of Wales’ renowned restaurants and lodging. Chef Rupert Taylor, who trained with London’s celebrated Heston Blumenthal, presents a creative and colorful plate using locally sourced meats and seasonal produce from his organic kitchen garden. The Bell’s wine list is meant to be savored, not only for its extensive selections but also its amusing wine-themed sketches by a local artist.

The "Town Crier" of Cardiff, the capital of Wales

I chose the New White Lion Inn in Llandovery to try the traditional Welsh rarebit, a dish best described as a grilled cheese fondue, followed by salt marsh lamb with laverbread – another Welsh delicacy with the quintessential ingredient, seaweed. After dinner, our hostess of the five-star, folklore-themed inn graciously showed us photos of a recent teatime at the inn with Prince Charles, who owns a country home nearby. Our walk the next morning near the village of Myddfai took us through woodland and gated pastures past Prince Charles and Camilla’s house, called Llwynywermod, which is available as a self-catering vacation rental when the Royal family is away.

Regardless of availability of Prince Charles’ digs, renting a farmhouse or village home is a delightful way to experience the vitality of Wales. Our cottage in Crickhowell at the edge of Brecon Beacons National Park was a perfect location for exploring parkland trails, walking to the village pubs, and indulging at the nearby Abergavenny Food Festival, held annually in September.

Among the top rated food festivals in Great Britain, Abergavenny is a pure culinary celebration with endless produce stalls, demonstrations, master classes, pop-up yurt restaurants, soapbox rants and entertainment. It’s a true homeland event, but fun for tourists too, with opportunities for guided mushroom forays, fishing excursions, and walks to nearby vineyards. My best discovery was a fresh, smooth tasting ice cream made with sheep’s milk, also available at Shepherd’s Ice Cream Parlour in nearby Hay-on-Wye.

Legend and Literary Bites
If not for ice cream, the quaint town of Hay-On-Wye on the English border is worth a browse as the famous “town of books.” With more than 30 bookshops, it is the largest second-hand book center in the world. Cozy cafes and clothing boutiques are also a draw, and the town’s historic castle is lined with stalls selling books on the honor system.

The Bell of Skenfrith displays local sources for its farm-to-table menu.

The Welsh countryside is dotted with historic castles and legendary landmarks that invite one to take a stroll or linger with a picnic spread from a village market or country farm shop. Not far from Wales’ capital, Cardiff, the Roman fortress and amphitheatre ruins at Caerlon are believed to be the location of King Arthur’s Camelot, one of many sites associated with the infamous king and his magician, Merlin. Nearby, Tintern Abbey stands as Wales’ first Cistercian monastery, founded in 1131. Most spectacular, Carreg Cennen is perched with views across the green Carmarthenshire hills and offers a scenic five-mile walking trail around the castle ruins.

On the south coast, Swansea attracts visitors for its maritime heritage and excellent seafood, and also as the birthplace of Wales’ most celebrated poet and author, Dylan Thomas. His life is commemorated in an interactive exhibit at the Dylan Thomas Center, and fans can walk in his footsteps and sleep in his bed at his home, a lovingly restored 20th century house that’s available for rent as a self-catering guesthouse. South coast menus feature cockles, a kind of mussel, and further west, the picturesque harbor town of Aberaeron is famous for lobsters and spider crab. Fish and chips are standard fare, served with “mush peas” that are surprisingly textured and tasty.

Tintern Abbey, Wales’ first Cistercian monastery, founded in 1131.

Wales’ Wine and Spirits
The pubs offer a grand selection of local ales, yet it’s hard to pass up Wales’ signature brew with a name like “Brains.” Welsh-made ciders are also popular, but I was curious to try Wales’ wine. Open for tastings, the family-owned Ancre Vineyard is set in the Wye Valley, apparently ideal for grape growing with an unusual mesa climate. Ancre specializes in boutique wines from Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Albarino grapes and produces a sparkling rose that stands up to the best.

Tours and tastings are also offered at Penderyn Distillery, producer of an award-winning single malt whisky as well as gin, vodka, and a smooth tasting cream liqueur called Merlyn. Penderyn prides its distinctive taste on its mountain spring water and the aging in barrels from Kentucky and Madeira. And Wales produces a premium mineral water, Tynant, easily recognizable by its artistic blue bottle.

A country once known as a “culinary desert,” Wales is becoming an oasis for farm-to-table cuisine, as a number of highly trained chefs from Michelin starred restaurants return to the source and inspire more producers. Food may not be the only excuse to visit, but when in Wales, a journey to culinary adventure is reason enough to raise a toast.

If you go: A two-hour train ride from London, Cardiff is a convenient gateway and attractive cultural center. Signage and brochures are generally printed in both English and Welsh, with about 20% of Wales’ population speaking the native Welsh language. For travel planning, visit www.visitwales.com.