A Lyrical Landscape Along the Danube Bike Trail

By Ann Yungmeyer

The famous Blue Danube Waltz by Austrian composer Johann Strauss II glorifies the beauty of the river with implied romance and a lyrical twist. As I recently set out on two wheels along the riverside path with my avid cyclist husband, the true ‘music to my ears’ was in knowing that it follows a mostly flat, or slightly downhill route.

The 'blue' Danube is more silver-blue or greenish

The Danube Bike Trail, formed from towpaths that were once used by teams of horses to pull barges upstream, extends from the Black Forest in Germany through Austria and Slovakia to Budapest, Hungary. The middle section from Passau, Germany to Vienna ranks as Europe’s most traveled bike route, and we were among the estimated 400,000 cyclists annually who ride segments of the stretch.

Popular with families, groups of friends and retired folk, the sign-posted Danube Trail (Donauradweg) is easy to follow and characterized by tranquil scenery dotted with monasteries, castle ruins and terraced vineyards. Leisurely riding of 25–50 kilometers per day allows time to explore the many cultural landmarks along the way.

Beginning at the Border

Upon arrival in Passau, we found the historic city teeming with riverboat passengers and cyclists preparing to embark downstream. Situated at the confluence of three rivers, Passau offers lively cafes and pedestrian squares, and its impressive Saint Stephens Cathedral houses the world’s largest cathedral organ, which can be heard at noon concerts.

Schlogen bend

Our route began from the contemporary chic Hotel Residenz, which overlooks the river and caters to cycling tourists. We were equipped with rental bikes with panniers for essentials, while luggage was transported daily by the touring company, Oberosterreich Touristik.

The first morning ride took us across the border and to the impressive Rococo- style Engelszell Abbey, Austria’s only Trappist monastery, occupied by eight remaining monks. We continued to Schlogen, the famous bend where the river actually reverses direction in an S-curve loop. From the perfectly situated Hotel Donauschlinge, a 30-minute uphill hike leads to a lookout with spectacular views of nature’s anomaly.

Cultural Capital

Arriving in the city of Linz, we found a unique blend of history and modern style. Our high-rise Hotel Arcotel was easy to spot near the bike trail, and although ostensibly a misfit on the landscape, inside we found a pleasant, contemporary design and first-rate restaurant and staff.

Bike parking at Hotel Donauschlinge

Having earned the title of “European Capital of Culture” in 2009, Linz utilizes modern technology to fuel creative expression with dramatic art installations and rooftop bridges, buildings that glow in color by night, and its renowned Ars Electronica, a digital art and technology center. From strolling the busy medieval square to discovering Linz Castle and museums, a visit to Austria’s third largest city isn’t complete without sampling the Linzer Torte, originated in 1653 and acclaimed as the oldest cake recipe in the world.

Further east on our route, the graceful hilltop Benedictine Abbey of Melk is one of the most outstanding abbeys in Europe and a key stop on the bike trail. The grand baroque complex, built in the early 1700s, was recently restored to feature its many ceiling frescos, a 100,000-volume library and outdoor gardens. For a unique experience, the monks’ noon prayer (sung and spoken in German) is open to visitors.

Village view from Melk Abbey

“Crown Jewel” of the Danube Scenery

We rode into the Wachau Valley on the south side of the river and took a ferry across to Spitz, a hillside village that marks the beginning of the Wachau wine region. Recognized for producing excellent white wines including Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, the area is quite popular for touring during fall harvest and in spring when the apricot orchards are in bloom. Our home for the night was Gasthaus Prankl, a 7th-generation inn, situated below a 13th century fortress ruin. From the cobbled town center we made our way up a steep climb to a historic defensive post known as the Red Gate to enjoy splendid views of the river valley and vineyards.

Checking the grapes near the village of Spitz

Weissenkirchen and Durnstein are storybook wine villages just a few kilometers apart. Durnstein’s restaurant terraces overlook the river and lie in the shadow of the town’s architectural masterpiece, a blue-towered, baroque monastery church built in 1733. Lunch can easily be worked off with a hike to the hilltop castle ruin where Richard the Lion-Hearted was held captive in 1192, and where undoubtedly, the most panoramic views along the Danube are found. Throughout the wine region, there are opportunities to visit “heuriges,” private vintners that open to the public to introduce the current year’s wine, served with simple foods.

Finding Mozart

At the edge of Wachau, from the 1,000-year old city of Krems, the bike path winds through wider valleys and sunflower fields, but if time runs short, the train to Vienna is an easy hop. We ended our tour with a trolley ride and walk through Austria’s capital, a thriving city that invites one to delve into its musical past while enjoying the contemporary vibe. Visitors can see Mozart’s house, now a museum, or take in a concert at Schonbrunn Palace or the Opera. On this short stay, we settled for piped in symphony sounds at one of many famous Viennese coffeehouses.

The largest cathedral organ in the world in Passau, Germany

From the sounds of the largest cathedral organ, to attending noon prayer with the monks of Melk and finding Mozart in a Viennese cafe, following the Danube is indeed a musical journey.

If you go: Guided or unguided trips along the Danube Cycle Trail are available through tour companies such as Experience Plus and the Chattanooga-based Bike Tours Direct. Countless others organize itineraries and provide transport services between hotels and Gasthaus (guesthouses) along the way. Visit www.austria.info/us.

Ann Yungmeyer is a freelance writer. Read more travel adventures at www.annyungmeyer.wordpress.com.