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Hi to all from Churchill, Polar Bear Capitol of the World. Churchill sits in the Northwest Territory of Canada on the Hudson Bay. I’ve packed every bit of winter and foul weather gear I own, digging out snowboard clothing I’d stored away until November. Polar bears like cold weather, right? And, I’m supposed to be heading toward the North Pole. As we land after the three hour flight from Winnipeg into Churchill (the only way you can get to Churchill is by plane or train), we look out the window and spot the Casper-the-Ghost-notebook-paper white skins of Beluga whales below us. Very cool. But, too far for my new Canon G9 to shoot. I’ve sold my big lenses in favor of an easy-to-travel with point and shoot. After shooting in Africa and Alaska, I’m tired of lugging the big equipment and am hoping that digital advancements will get me what I need. But, I’m thinking I’m going to have to get pretty close to wildlife to get what I’m used to with my mega lenses. I’ve got good animal mojo though. I know they’ll come to me.
I get to the customs guy, a friendly Canadian who asks me why I’m in Canada. I answer, “Hopefully, to see Polar Bears.” He answers that he just returned from Churchill and saw several in town even. Okay. Now I’m excited. This time of year, there are no guarantees. Summer tours in Churchill promise Belugas and “possible” polar bears. So this is good news. The mountie (they are called mounties, right?) asks if I’ll be leaving anything behind in Canada. I answer, “Hopefully, not my dead carcass.” Good thing the Canadians have a sense of humor.
The Lazy Bear Lodge is a log cabin style inn at the edge of town. Lots of wood. Spartan rooms. Quaint. Don’t plan on being uptight here about anything. It’s laid back. For dinner, I had arctic char. The table next to us returned two of their fillets because they were still cold in the center. For someone like me OCD about food poisoning, that might have sent me over the edge. But, I convince myself that mine was cooked. Poke a finger into the middle of the remaining slab and find it still warm to the touch. Breathe. There’s a polar bear rug mounted over our heads. Makes me a little sad to see him hanging there like that.
After dinner we walk through town. Lots of kids on ATVs. Not a whole lot else for them to do around here. Churchill’s buildings need a remodel. Mixed use hasn’t caught on here yet. It’s slightly dilapidated, weathered. But, it works. You can find the liquor store and bank in one building with several churches steps away. Go to the bank, spend your money on booze, then repent. Got it.
Mosquitoes are still around. Got my BUZZ OFF™ clothes and some repellent. It’s hot here. Balmy even. If I were a polar bear, I’d be on some ice far, far away. Hope it cools off soon.
Today, we’re off for a 6 hour boat trip in search of the great white bear. More later!
