Brand New Climbing Rig
10-minute Sports Makeover
Always surrounded by climbers, the American Alpine Club’s Dana Richardson has seen it all when it comes to gear. “I borrowed this rope from my boss. And this harness? I think it came out of a garage somewhere,” she laughs. Dana is organizing the second annual Craggin’ Classic, a climbing festival near Salt Lake City October 9–11, so we felt she deserved an equipment upgrade to prep her for tackling hundreds of new routes in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Bridgid Lupetin, a clothing specialist for Neptune Mountaineering, a Boulder—Colorado, climbing standby—helped put together this new look.
No brain-saving helmet to protect her from falling rocks
Baggy cotton T-shirt: good for range of motion—and for getting caught in gear
Harness without leg loops and degraded nylon (she’s not double backed)
Gear sling gets in the way both hiking and climbing.
Missing parts on these old aluminum quickdraws
Heavy leather shoes are overkill for the approach and not good for climbing.
Too-small pack with outside straps, mesh, and clips that snag on haul-ups
Ibex Outback 100 percent merino long-sleeve is stretchy, provides sun coverage, and will stay stink-free.
Petzl Meteor helmet is ultralight, easily adjustable, and headlamp- and ponytail-compatible; there’s a notch on the back to make room for her ’do.
With two-way stretch, the prAna Bliss Capri fits close but leaves room for awkward angles.
Good combo for a safe belay: the Petzl Reverso and DMM’s 11 mm screwgate carabiner, the Zodiak.
The Arc’teryx R280 harness comes in five women’s-specific sizes (with adjustable or nonadjustable leg loops) and it’s supertough despite its ultralight feel.
Oboz suede-upper Teton is rugged enough for off-trail approaches yet lightweight and versatile.
The Millet Diamax Triaxial’s core provides a stable shape and just the right amount of give— one of the toughest ropes around.
2,000 square inches bound by burly vinyl, the Metolius Shield will last for—and up—the long haul.
La Sportiva’s Miura shoe is for all-around climbing and built on a women’s-specific last for a narrower fit in the heel.
