Bouldering

Credit: CAROLINE TREADWAY

Solve problems, challenge yourself

By Abbey Smith

It was a race, and I was scrambling on orangey-red sandstone boulders, pulling whatever acrobatic maneuvers I could to beat the boys to the top. As an ex-gymnast, I was limber, competitive, and fearless. I often heard the boys warn: “This move is too big for girls.” Their dismissal only made me want to prove the gangly goons wrong. I knew nothing about climbing technique, but outsmarting the boys with superior balance and hard-earned flexibility became a fun pastime. I never expected my life would eventually revolve around climbing similarly diminutive crags in the most remote and exotic regions of the world, but those first urgent scramble sessions happened more than ten years ago.

When I started climbing, Lynn Hill was pushing free climbing standards and Bobbi Bensman was crushing steep sport routes, but I was most captivated by Lisa Rands, who was breaking barriers in bouldering. She proved that women could climb just as hard and high as men, and she made first-female ascents of extremely difficult and dangerously tall problems—climbing lingo for bouldering routes. At the time, this dynamic sport was widely considered “practice climbing” for longer roped routes but, in conjunction with the explosion of climbing gyms and because of easy and inexpensive access, bouldering has gained popularity and matured to claim an identity as a sport of its own.

Bouldering focuses on the roots of all climbing movement, emphasizing powerful dynamics, full-body coordination, impeccable strength, and graceful flexibility. It takes place on individual spans of boulders, large and small, above a nest of foam crash pads for protection. The difficulty, control, and technical skill that makes for good bouldering is raising standards in all styles of climbing. And, according to 26-year-old Angie Payne, who set a new bar by climbing a V13—the hardest boulder problem yet climbed by a woman: “Women are definitely stepping up to the challenge.” Pioneer Bobbi Bensman confirms, “Nowadays, bouldering is very much a women’s sport,” she says.

Last fall Abbey put up first ascents on a climbing expedition to the Himalayas. See her slideshow.

Gear
Breaking into bouldering won’t break the bank and, with these essentials, you’ll be fully equipped.

Marmot Kompresor Pack ($40; marmot.com)

Lapis Boar’s Hair Brush ($7; lapisholds.com)

La Sportiva Cobra Climbing Shoes ($120; sportiva.com)

Verve Powder Ho Bouldering Chalkbag ($24; verveclimbing.com)

Revolution Mission Crash Pad ($259; revolutionclimbing.com)

HOW TO

Your goal: problem solving. Rocks present puzzles, called problems in climbing-speak, and bouldering is the process of coordinating mind and body to overcome them. Climbing techniques—and climbing-toned muscles—may help you scale a stand-alone rock and power your way to the top of a problem. But in bouldering there are no rules, and creativity is key in vision and execution.

DO

• Take time to stretch your muscles and warm up your finger tendons before grabbing small holds and attempting difficult moves.
• Plan your attack before pulling onto a problem. Inspect every hold, scope the finish (or “top-out”), and imagine the sequence. Smart, planned, and conservative efforts leave you energy to continue climbing.
• Prior to each attempt, re-align crash pads with the direction of any possible fall. Take note of uneven edges, gaps, straps, and sharp objects. Recruit a spotter (or two) you trust so you can climb harder and spend less time worrying about fall risk.
• Climb with people who are stronger than you. Observing how they move can help you learn new skills, understand body positioning, and develop a strategy.
• Climbing is a mental game. Try problems that push your personal limits and comfort zones, but know your limits. If you’re feeling on point, don’t hold back; if you’re tired or in over your head, know when to call it quits.

DON’T

• Grope holds with unchalked and sweaty hands—you’ll sabotage the rock’s natural friction and texture. Keep your work area clean: Brush holds after every attempt.
• Be afraid to be openly competitive with other climbers. Seeing another girl “crush” a problem is the ultimate motivator. “Healthy competition drives the sport forward,” says Angie Payne.
• Let your attention stray while spotting other climbers. Play close attention to where the climber might fall, be ready to move quickly to help her avoid obstacles on the ground, reach for her hips, and help protect her head.
• Let fear and insecurity limit your potential. If you’re scared of a particular move or the height of the boulder, gradually build confidence by climbing incrementally—one hold higher—than your comfort zone and practicing controlled falls. “Don’t give up,” Payne says. “Persistence is everything.”