As counterintuitive as it may seem, the survival of certain threatened species might just hinge on ecotourism.
By Sarah Murray
Staring into an orangutan’s eyes in the wild is an experience that strips a human being of all pretenses. For a still moment, everything in the jungle falls away. The cicadas’ song is silenced by the sound of your own pumping heart. The gentle being humbles you with her largesse. A peaceful gaze unveils a sense of shared vulnerability. The captivation transcends pictures and summons an appreciation of the dance between evolution and spirituality. The image, the feeling, the knowing truly moves your soul.
And do you suppose the reverse holds true? When that orangutan slowly swings away, have you moved her? We love to catch a glimpse of creatures in the wild, but what is the impact of their exposure to us? While the experience of coming face-to-face with an orangutan or a lion constitutes a supremely satisfying adventure from our perspective, it is naive to believe that our passion for the moment does not have consequences.
Since the beginning of time, humans have been an integral part of the destruction of thousands of native plant and animal species. There are now 41,415 species on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List—the most comprehensive accounting of threatened species.In the past 500 years, more than 800 species have been forced into extinction, including Caspian tigers, eastern elk, and the imperial woodpecker.
So here we are, at a point in history when one in four mammals is in jeopardy of extinction. What now? A logical answer would be to quit our sprawling ways, turn off our car engines and air-conditioners, and think twice about throwing out the most recent direct-mail piece from the World Wildlife Fund.
The bad news: That’s not enough. The destruction of native habitats and the disappearance of indigenous species will continue unless we all become proactive about their conservation. The good news: As counterintuitive as it may seem, the survival of certain endangered species might just hinge on ecotourism.
“Conserving endangered species in the developing world is a challenge because it is often more economical from the government’s point of view to use wildlife habitat for other purposes, such as to extract timber or for large-scale agriculture,” says Dr. Sonya Kahlenberg, one of the nation’s leading chimpanzee researchers from Harvard University, who has done extensive conservation work. “Ecotourism can play a big role in reversing this trend because wildlife tourists can make animals and their intact habitat a revenue-generating resource. In Uganda, for example, ecotourism is becoming an important source of income for the country. This has positive implications for conservation because it means that protecting endangered species and their habitat becomes a priority for decision-makers.”
The line between the positive and the negative impacts of tourism on a threatened population could not be finer. The money you spend on a jungle trek to see an orangutan in the wild can be funneled into rehabilitating ex-captives, conducting research, and generally raising global awareness about their fight for survival on this planet. Ecoconscious travelers wanting to spend time among extraordinary wildlife must be incredibly careful about choosing outfitters with a commitment to preservation. For every company promoting conservation, there are several others who are willing to compromise the health of the habitat or species for your dollar.
Ready for an epic encounter? Here are five wildlife adventure trips around the world that will blow your mind while contributing to conservation.
Jungle Trekking: Sumatran Orangutans, Bukit Lawang, Sumatra, Indonesia
About the Sumatran Orangutan
Although chimpanzees are more closely related to humans in terms of genetics, the orangutan shares more features with us than any other living creature. These highly intelligent, red-haired giants spend the majority of their waking hours swinging leisurely through the jungle canopy in search of fruit. There are only two places in the world where orangutans still live in the wild: Sumatra and Borneo, both islands in the Indonesian archipelago. As of 2007 there are only about 7,000 Sumatran orangutans left in the wild, making their status “critically endangered” on the IUCN’s Red List—just one step away from extinction. A major threat to orangutans is logging of their forest habitat. “Logging is often the best job available to people living near forests,” says Kahlenberg. “But as ecotourism is developed as an alternative livelihood, native populations are finding it to be a lucrative and more sustainable income option. The effect is a win-win: people’s lives are improved and at the same time the reduction of logging helps preserve the orangutan habitat.”
The Adventure
The best place in Sumatra to see orangutans in the wild is the epic Gunung Leuser National Park—a three-hour bus ride from Medan, the capital city. Start your day in the singletrack- accessed Bukit Lawang, with homemade banana pancakes at the perfectly primitive Jungle Inn (telephone: +6281 3707 30151) perched directly across the river from the orangutan sanctuary. If you’re lucky, you can see orangutans playing in the water while you sip the best chai of your life (www.wikitravel.org/en/gunung_leuser_national_park). For the full experience, take a two-day trek into the jungle, which can generally be arranged by word of mouth. Most of the guides in Bukit Lawang grew up in the jungle and have an incredible tracking sense. The trekking is equally rigorous and rewarding, with orangutan spottings multiple times during the day. Coming face-to-face with a curious relative will leave you humbled and smiling. Cross the river before dusk, bathe in the waterfalls, and fall asleep to the beautiful symphony of gibbons. Day 2 includes a little more trekking and a wild river tubing trip back to town that you won’t soon forget. In between rapids, keep your eyes on the riverbanks, as the area is dense with Thomas leaf monkeys, toucans, and monitor lizards.
Ethical Outfitters
Bukit Lawang consists of a handful of hotels and restaurants that run along the river (Eco Lodge, Jungle Inn, and Sam’s are reliable and can generally be booked upon arrival). Unfortunately, a giant flood in 2003 left the town without Internet. Ask the proprietor at your lodgings for a local guide (“Alec” is highly recommended). Any trip you take into the jungle should include the purchase of a permit, which the guide will secure and you’ll only have to sign. Proceeds from this permit go to the management of the sanctuary.
When to Go
Trekking into the jungle at Bukit Lawang is best done during the dry season that runs from April to September. During the other half of the year, daily monsoonal rains often cause mudslides and raised water volume, making trails and river crossings impassible.
Touring the Tundra: Polar Bears, Churchill, Manitoba, Canada
About Polar Bears
Thanks in no small part to Al Gore and Disney’s Arctic Tale, the world is learning quickly about the plight of the polar bear. Global warming is causing the sea ice to melt earlier in the year. Polar bears can hunt seals consistently only from that sea ice. They rely on fat storages to last for the time that they are onshore—which is becoming longer and longer. The bears are literally starving to death because they can’t hunt from the shores. In late summer and early fall, they are forced to swim in search of food. Beyond depleting precious energy reserves, the bears have been drowning from having to swim longer distances. The IUCN predicts that if climactic trends continue, the polar bear’s range will be completely gone within 100 years. Currently, they are considered a vulnerable species on the Red List and, as of 2008, they have been added to the U.S. Department of the Interior’s Endangered Species List. It is estimated that between 20,000 and 25,000 polar bears are living today in various areas of the Arctic.
The Adventure
Saying that viewing polar bears in the wild is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity may not be much of an overstatement. And there’s no better place to see these amazing creatures than at Churchill, which has one of the biggest polar bear denning areas in the world and lies near the southern limit of where the bears can live year-round. Each year they congregate on the shores at Churchill, waiting for the ice to return and the feeding to begin. Churchill Northern Studies Centre offers a learning vacation in November, with all profits going to supporting the science behind conservation. You’ll spend five days learning all you’d ever want to know about polar bears from professional scientists and researchers. The actual viewing happens in a vehicle created specifically for the tundra. Bundle up in the elevated flatbed truck, and, if you’re lucky, curious polar bears will come right up to the vehicle. You’ll also enjoy a helicopter ride and day spent dogsledding, truly capturing the complete picture of this arctic region.
Ethical Outfitters
Churchill Northern Studies Centre (www.churchillscience.ca) charges $2,200 for a five-day learning vacation. Several commercial groups offer viewing tours, including the Tundra Buggy Adventure (www.tundrabuggy.com). Prices are typically all-inclusive and range from $2,500 to $5,000. Want to see the bears without the hum of a motor? Try one of the Nature 1st Tours walking tours (www.nature1sttours.ca), which cost $70 for a half-day hike and $135 for a full day.
When to Go
The best time to see polar bears in Churchill is October and November, when they congregate to await the arrival of the sea ice and its promises of food. If you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of a beluga whale at the tail end of its migration.
Sea Kayaking: Orcas, San Juan Islands, Washington
About Orcas
Also known as killer whales, orcas have a unique aesthetic allure and the ability to capture our imaginations. The largest and most intelligent of the dolphin family, they are widespread on a global scale, although regional populations can be small and highly specialized. Orcas are currently tagged as “conservation dependent” on the IUCN Red List. There are 89 known resident orcas around the San Juan Island archipelago. The three pods (family groups) make up the population known as the southern resident killer whales. The greatest threats to their livelihood have been whaling (prior to the 1981 international moratorium), vessel disturbance, and habitat degradation from industrial contaminants. The compromise of the ocean habitat has dramatically jeopardized salmon, their primary food source, creating a compounded challenge for their survival.
Use Your Vote
At the end of the day, the protection of natural lands and the animal species that depend on them lies in the hands of politicians. Take the time to learn candidates’ environmental views and voting records and, come November, go for the ecovote. Go to www.votesmart.org and click on Animal Rights and Wildlife issues.
Revolutionize Your Ring
The Center for Biological Diversity offers free endangered species ring tones. Download the sweet song of the beluga whale or the howl of a Mexican wolf. When your cell phone chirps or pant-hoots at the next girls’ night out, spread the good word about conservation to all your friends (www.rareearthtones.org).
Donate to an Organization
Countless nonprofit organizations conduct research, lobby politicians, and get out in the field to protect wildlife. Join a general organization, such as the World Wildlife Fund, or give to an animal-specific group, like the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary.
Reduce Your Carbon Footprint
A major contributor to the endangerment of hundreds of species is global warming. What we do in Anytown, USA, has lasting effects on the global climate. Consider what impact you have on retreating sea ice. Drive less, bike more, recycle, reduce your waste, and turn off your lights.
Preserve Local Habitats
One in four mammals, one in eight birds, one-third of all amphibians, and 70 percent of the world’s assessed plants on the 2007 IUCN Red List are in jeopardy. Chances are good that there are endangered species right outside your door. Do the little things to help preserve native habitats: stay on trails, clean up after your dog, reconsider real estate development, and always follow Leave No Trace ethics when playing outside.
The Adventure
There is perhaps no more humbling feeling than that of kayaking alongside an orca in the open ocean. With part of your body literally beneath the water in your boat, you can’t help but feel a part of the serene world you’re exploring. The San Juan Islands National Wildlife Refuge off the coast of Washington offers the opportunity to sidle up to orcas. Depending on how much paddling you’re willing to do, your adventure can last anywhere from three hours to five days. Your greatest chance of seeing orcas is on the west coast of the island, with tours leaving from Friday and Roche harbors. Although outfitters claim high sighting percentages during the season, there is some luck involved. Orcas regularly cover up to 100 miles per day. Kayakers typically move at a pace of about 3 miles per hour. If you want to increase your chances of paddling with orcas, opt for a five-hour or longer trip. Keep your eyes peeled for the harbor seals, porpoises, gray whales, and Pacific white-sided dolphins, who also call the Puget Sound home.
Ethical Outfitters
Look for outfitters and guides who belong to the Whale Watch Operators Association Northwest and follow the prescribed guidelines for marine wildlife viewing. San Juan Safaris follows strict National Outdoor Leadership School standards and offers trips guided by trained naturalists who educate guests on orca conservation issues. Prices range from $70 for a three- hour trip to $200 for a three-day/two-night paddling adventure. www.sanjuansafaris.com
When to Go
You’re most likely to see the orcas that reside near San Juan Island (and experience pleasant weather) from mid-April through September. During these months the orcas feed on salmon that run in the surrounding waters. During the winter months, orcas migrate to the open ocean.
Hiking the Himalayas: Red Pandas, Katmandu Valley, Nepal
About the Red Panda
Red pandas are small, shy creatures that look like a cross between a raccoon and a giant panda. They are found in just a few remote regions of Asia, including the Himalayas, northern Myanmar, and in China’s Sichuan and Yunnan provinces. An estimated 7,000 red pandas remain in the wild, making this arboreal species officially endangered. The disappearance of the species is a quintessential example of a natural habitat being compromised for the economic sustainability of a human population. In Nepal the bamboo forests that red pandas inhabit are being logged to support the economy of the 30,000 villagers who live in and around Langtang National Park. Without economic alternatives, the clear-cutting of the forests is unfortunately but understandably more valuable to the local population than the red panda. To be successful, conservation efforts to ensure the survival of the red panda must address the economic needs of the Nepalese. Providing native populations with educational and potential income-earning opportunities through ecotourism enables villagers to become financially invested in seeing the red pandas and their habitat live on.
The Adventure
A trip to the Katmandu Valley to spot red pandas is an experience that goes far beyond wildlife viewing. The Red Panda Network runs two ecotrips each year to the heart of the region. Just as conservation hinges on local culture, the trip includes introductions to both biological and cultural life. Beyond the wildlife and the cultural experience, you’ll find yourself trekking in a mountain-lover’s Shangri-La. The journey starts in rhododendron forests in southeastern Nepal. You’ll pass through oolong and Darjeeling tea estates, wander around Buddhist and Hindu temples, and drop-jaw at the magnificent sights of four of the world’s tallest peaks, including Mount Everest. The adventure culminates with a hike to Kalpokhari to search for the red panda in its pristine natural habitat. Although red pandas are elusive, tracking them is made easier by the fact that their home territory is typically just one square mile (for females, twice that for males). In addition to the red pandas, if you’re able to take your eyes off the glorious mountains, you’ll also have a chance to see clouded leopards, wolves, and various rare species of birds.
Ethical Outfitters
The Red Panda Network, a nonprofit organization, runs two all-inclusive ecotrips each year for $3,000, which includes food, internal airfare, park fees, accommodations, and transportation. Proceeds from the trips go toward research and community-based education and conservation (www.redpandanetwork.org).
When to Go
Fourteen-day trips are available in November/December and March/April.
Safari on the Savannah: African Elephants, Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary, Kenya
About the African Elephant
Even the world’s largest terrestrial mammal isn’t immune to endangerment. For decades African elephants have been poached for their ivory tusks, which hold disturbing value on the black market even today. With a population of between 470,000 to 690,000 individuals across almost a dozen countries in Africa, the species is considered vulnerable by IUCN standards. African elephants live in savannas, broadleaf forests, and woodlands. Loss of those habitats to a growing human population has threatened the survival of the species. In Kenya only 20 percent of the known elephant habitats exist within protected lands. The result of the majority of elephants living in unprotected areas is constant conflict with humans, who are often afraid of the animals, thus further threatening their lives.
The Adventure
It is rare to be guaranteed sightings of any animal while on safari. A trip to the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary guarantees not just a glimpse of wild elephants but a chance to contribute to their survival. The sanctuary is a community-based initiative aimed at reducing human/elephant conflicts in an area with the highest density of elephants in Africa. More than 200 families have voluntarily contributed land to the reserve, agreeing not to farm this critical habitat. The beauty of this project is that the contributing families are earning more from ecotourism than they would from farming. Gate entrance fees have enabled the community to build school classrooms and enjoy better roads and a steady water supply. As a volunteer, you’ll work with experts from the Kenya Wildlife Service and the local community, identifying elephants, recording herd behavior, and getting an intimate look at the species. Those in search of relaxation fear not—this is hardly a working vacation. Daily game drives and guided walking safaris in Tsavo East National Park are spaced out among white-tablecloth meals and relaxation on the white-sand Diani Beach. Watch the sunset with a cocktail in hand in front of a raging campfire, and doze off under the stars in a private thatched-roof bungalow while being serenaded by the trumpeting of elephants.
Ethical Outfitters
African Mecca Safaris is just one of many tour companies that arrange trips to Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary and nearby beaches and mountains. Transportation, accommodations, food, entry permits, and game drives are included, with prices ranging from $450 for a three-day stay to $1,500 for a seven-day trip (www.africanmeccasafaris.com/kenya/safaris/parks/mwaluganje.asp).
When to Go
Although you can see African elephants at the sanctuary virtually anytime of year, plan your trip to coincide with the great migration of the wildebeest in mid-July through mid-August. Truly one of the most magnificent spectacles of the natural world, more than a million wildebeests travel in a single herd across the savanna in search of rain and fresh grass.
